Re: LT31 1986 DW jerking at 2000-2300 rpm


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Geschrieben von Jonathan PAUL am 25. April 2021 10:37:52:

Als Antwort auf: Re: LT31 1986 DW jerking at 2000-2300 rpm geschrieben von emilio da roma am 25. April 2021 09:03:07:

Hello dear forumers!
Here to update you about my sick DW engine, and looking for some more kind advice. Before reinstalling the pump, I made a compression test, here the bad results:
cyl. 1 -> 23 bar
cyl. 2 -> 3 bar
cyl. 3 -> 31 bar
cyl. 4 -> 29 bar
cyl. 5 -> 25 bar
cyl. 6 -> 28 bar
for sure not numbers from a fresh engine, although i did not get any death symptom at all before the strange behaviour "hiccup" i described in the first post.
the intake valve on cyl. 2 is leaking, here is the video of the last test, you can listen at my voice and a little bark of Ettore, my dachshund :)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jl4mcga2xiwyk1/IntakeValveCyl2Leaking.mp4?dl=0
my idea is, as a frist attempt in the sake of containing costs, to remove the head, have it replaced or refurbished and reinstall with new cambelt&coolant pump etc, in the hope that the condition of the "low" side of the engine is still acceptable. at the moment the situation is: removed intake manifold and the upper 6 copper nuts from the exhaust manifold and the upper 2 from the heat shield bolted to the right manifold. don't know how to reach most of the 6 lower nuts. Which is the best way/tool to remove them? And, once removed, are both manifolds free to be moved enough to clear the studs on the head? Can you help me? I found no useful informations on the manuals i have. Thanks in advance, as usual!
Ciao
emilio

Thaks for the advice Tiemo! For the moment I want to focus only on the "rear side" of the engine, seems like a miracle to me to have done in just one week what an experienced mechanic does in half an hour :) at least at the end of this journey i will have learned how to adjust valve clearange, how to change the rear camshaft oil seal, how to remove the ESP gear without a puller and, hopefully, install the ESP and properly set its injection timing. I know very well that the front side of the engine may hide more challenging surprises to deal with: in the meantime i get almost all the tools needed for the cambelt, missing only the500 nm torque wrench… we will see...
Hello Emilio!
I need the gear puller to remove the ESP, i oredered an universal type, hoping it will do the job!
There is no need for a gear puller to unmount the wheel of the ESP! On the contrary, this could damage the wheel.
Just do the following:
- Loosen the nut about 2 turns, to protect the shaft and to avoid flying away of the wheel, when it comes off.
- Take two big screwdrivers and, one from the left, annother from the right, push them into the gap between the wheel and the hub of the ESP as wedges, using a plastic hammer, so they are under tension.
- Then, with a metal hammer, give one blow to the nut. The wheel will jump off the joint.
Same with the front wheel of the camshaft (if necessary):
- Loosen the Screw about two turns, using a wrench and a backstop.
- Take a backing-out punch or a small metal rod (about 8mm diameter) and give it a blow by a metal hammer, setting it into the hole in the belt housing behind the wheel.
- The wheel will jump off the joint, but be kept back by the loosened screw.
Ciao,
Tiemo

Hi Emilio, did you ever checked the clearence of the valves, esp. Cyl 2?

Br

Jonathan



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